National Cleavage Day What??
Apr. 3rd, 2009 01:13 pmOh.
It is.
Sponsored by Wonderbra.
...
Oh.
I am so disappointed.
Wonderbra is the epitome of the bra manufacturer that does not, would not ever, make anything to fit me or anyone remotely shaped like me. They're part of the Victoria's Secret phenomenon, the whole cadre of manufacturers of lingerie who only make sizes 34-36-38 A-B-C-(D). Now, that's their prerogative, sure, but the problem is that when companies like this become industry leaders, they inspire loads of knockoffs... and nobody makes anything but those sizes.
It is a very, very short logical leap from thence to the "indisputible fact" that all women are these sizes and these sizes only, and if you can't make those sizes work for you, you are some sort of freak of nature. Because if there was a market for those sizes someone would surely make them.
Right?
Anyway only fat chicks have fat tits and we are SO ASHAMED OF FAT and would not want fatties in our store!!! If we made FAT bras then we would no longer be a glamorous brand and skinny hot chicks would not shop here anymore and that would be AWFUL.
BE ASHAMED OF YOUR SHAMEFUL FAT BOOBS YOU SHAMEFUL FATTY. SHAME.
So since those sizes aren't made by mainstream manufacturers, nobody knows they exist, so nobody shops for them, so nobody makes them...
To my knowledge no one has ever actually scientifically attempted to survey the actual bust size of a broad sample of American women.
Obviously, I'm digressing. Those are two totally separate arguments going on right there, but each of them, separately and intertwined, have given me horrible issues for years, so...
But anyway. Here, for the record, is my that-size-doesn't-exist freak-of-nature cleavage, in one of my Pennsic cholis. Nuts to you, Wonderbra.
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Date: 2009-04-03 05:46 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 08:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-06 06:42 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 05:51 pm (UTC)It doesn't end at bust-size, of course, but it's particularly egregious when you can't find things that fit because you don't resemble Kate Moss.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:26 pm (UTC)The problem lies with the whole combination of the ready-to-wear fashion industry, which makes clothes that fit no-one, combined with our culture of conformity and the monetization of insecurity, meaning that no one can find clothes that fit and no one feels good about it.
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Date: 2009-04-03 05:53 pm (UTC)I have the worst problem of them all: I'm a fatty with small boobs. That's right, I get to be ashamed of my fat while simultaneously not offering the world anything at all that might make up in some small way for being a fatty.
Shame shame shame. So while I can sort of buy bras at Victoria's Secret, I don't because no one there will actually wait on me. They just ignore me until I get frustrated and remove myself and my fat from the premises. Though I'm small busted enough that I don't wear bras normally. I own one bra and I haven't worn it in months.
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Date: 2009-04-03 06:08 pm (UTC)it doesn't exist in stores.
it's very frustrating to not fit the conventional market segments
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Date: 2009-04-03 07:27 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 08:34 pm (UTC)The closer sister size would probably be to go for a 36B with an extender (http://store.quilting-warehouse.com/102177.html)-- same cup size as 38A, volume-wise.
(I have the opposite problem, in that I need a small band and a large cup, so I buy bras and take in the bands, but I have to go up so many band sizes that the bras' proportions are all off.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:37 pm (UTC)Now that I'm a stranger size still (40C or 42B, depending on the brand and cup manufacture), I have even bigger issues finding bras that neither bind around the chest nor leave me with boob spilling everywhere or cup fabric all over the place. I'm not QUITE a C, but I'm definitely not really a B...grrr...
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Date: 2009-04-03 10:13 pm (UTC)There's also the question of breast shape vs. style of bra-- the only style of bra that fits me properly is a balconette, preferably with vertically-seamed cups. Apparently my breasts are very high and close together, so they have a tendency to hang down and flop to the sides, which means I need to wear a bra that will push them up and in. Any other style I pooch out of on top even if the cup is too large, and tend to flop to the sides, and the tendency is made worse if the cups are set too wide-- since that's not where my breasts are, it means it pinches, pokes, and generally does not flatter.
So figuring out what style of cup, what brand, and all the rest has a huge effect.
Bras are so complicated that really, they need to be custom-made. But that's prohibitively expensive and very inaccessible in our ready-to-wear-only society. Most women will never have a garment custom-made to them, and will only have their wedding dress tailored-- if even that.
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Date: 2009-04-03 11:53 pm (UTC)I know what you mean about tailoring, etc. I make most of my own clothes, and what I don't, I tailor.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:30 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 08:35 pm (UTC)Maidenform makes 38A in their Miracle Bra (I think that's what it's called; it's the microfiber moulded cup one).
And, believe it or not, but the Gillian & O'Malley line at Target and the Fruit of the Loom bras at WALMART, of all places, carry 38As. The Walmart ones are really, really comfortable, too.
(I used to be a 38A. Then I got chubby. If you thought 38A was hard to find, try being a 42-pretty-much-not-really-B)
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:29 pm (UTC)Which is why I've started making my own clothes so much, indirectly, because the only time I feel bad about my body has to do with clothing and how it fits or doesn't. That's the worst remaining body-image issue I have. So I try to make me-sized clothes that are also me-shaped, and it's such a novelty... that's the only thing that helps me.
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Date: 2009-04-03 06:14 pm (UTC)I remember when the Wonderbra first hit the shelves and I went "Oh yeah! I need me one of those!", only to be told, rather snootily, by the Victoria Secret drone that the bra wasn't available in anything above a C-cup (at that point) because "It's our opinion that women above a C-cup don't *need* a push-up bra"
Like fun we don't.
I'm a big-boobed gal, always have been - even when I was 110lbs with rocks in my pockets, I was a D-cup. I'm not that much heavier, now but suffice it to say that I don't even go *near* VS any more.
Thank heavens for Frederick's of Hollywood. "30 Triple-D? We got it! 46B? Sure thing!"
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:36 pm (UTC)They carry up to F.
Which is a DDDD.
I need a JJ so it's not that helpful. But for a little while I could squeeze in. At least they never made me feel bad about it when they didn't have my size. (I tried on the F and said shyly... "The band fits OK, a bit loose, but the cup is way too small... do you have... a larger cup?" And she said "Oh no honey, I don't think we do. That's too bad. Let me check." and was super nice about it.)
VS shoved me in a 38D that I poured out the top of and said "That's what we have." and made me feel bad for not buying it even though it was horrible-- I had, like, six boobs.
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Date: 2009-04-03 06:15 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 08:41 pm (UTC)They're part of the Victoria's Secret phenomenon
I know they're a different company; I'm sorry if I was unclear. I was reacting to the whole phenomenon that became popular early in my adolescence-- these glamorous bra-focused stores / lingerie lines, that made affordable-yet-mainstream-fashion-forward bras... in like four sizes.
there are plenty of options for women with all size ta-tas
OK, I don't know you at all, but I hope you're being facetious.
If you're not: I'm a 32JJ UK sizes. The size charts say that's an N in US sizes, but I have never seen one so I wouldn't know.
Go to the mall and find me an option. Just one. Go for it. I'll wait here.
Online I have found about two options, none of which are affordable; Figleaves.co.uk was the best option I had, but they did away with their free returns so I can no longer afford them-- bras rarely fit me in the first size I try on, even though I was professionally fitted in two separate lingerie shops in London, UK as a 32JJ.
Neither of those shops, by the way, one of which was a specialty D+ shop I might mention, had one bra that fit me. I would have had to buy a 38G and get it altered, from the one. The other sold me a 34J that I have had to alter since.
I would love to see these "plenty of options". Thanks in advance!
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Date: 2009-04-03 11:24 pm (UTC)I'm a dinosaur. People who try to make you ashamed you should go Rarr at. Really loud and show them who's boss!!
RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARARARRRR!!
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Date: 2009-04-04 03:29 am (UTC)Still, I totally understand where you're coming from. I've spend much energy railing against the injustices of manufacturers like Victoria's Secret or Payless screwing an entire segment of society sized a certain way. But I get that if the demand isn't there, some mainstream manufacturers don't find it cost effective to produce it.
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Date: 2009-04-03 06:36 pm (UTC)It seems to me that a store that is smart should try and sell products to make women of any size look as good as possible. That is just smart business. Also if I were selling lingerie I would deliberately want to stock a wide range and even have special mannequins (womnannequins?) because it just makes sense that if you project an image that larger women can get the same products and service as petite women that should be a draw, no? And I hardly think you're going to drive the skinny b-cup gals away as long as you also show that you have good stuff for them. I'm hardly a marketing genius, but this seems obvious to me.
Anyway, Brava!
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:44 pm (UTC)Also fat women don't deserve fashionable clothing that fits, so even if they do complain, the skinny women can laugh at them.
That is the prevailing ethos. That's what the marketing geniuses say. And that's what the big companies do.
Bravissimo, a UK company, has made a whole niche for themselves by only carrying D+ bras, and having larger mannequins.
But they ONLY serve large-cup, small-band customers. They do not carry anything "plus-size"-- a friend who is a 40E went in and left empty-handed.
Also they are only in the UK. Currently, there is nothing like them in the US.
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Date: 2009-04-03 09:29 pm (UTC)This is also why I hate shoe shopping.
"but why don't you make a 10.5?"
"well, we'd have to make a whole 'nother last"
"and you don't for any other size?"
"well, it's not common enough, and you could just wear an 11 or a 10, it's only a fraction of an inch different!"
*tries on sizes*
"Oh, huh. The 10's too small and the 11's too big, I guess you need a . . .oh, wait. sorry, we don't make those. too bad for you."
even better than needing a 10.5 shoe, I also tend to be halfway between regular and wide widths. fun!
and my husband would wear 31/31 pants if they existed, and needs a 36R suit.
We are just a housefull of rtw sizing is evil.
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Date: 2009-04-03 10:41 pm (UTC)He wears 30x32s low on his hips and wears black socks, since they show so much.
The one pair of tailored pants he owns is actual 28 1/2" at the waist, and has a 37" inseam-- his natural waist is very high for a man, and he's all legs.
Shoes are trickier, but there's just so much trouble in this house that I figure learning to sew is worth it. The boyfriend's mother was a seamstress back when that was done-- at J.C. Penney!! She was just on staff. Everyone had things altered. But she stopped sewing things because it's not cost-effective.
I just think I'd rather make my own than support an irrelevant industry.
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Date: 2009-04-03 06:39 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 08:44 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-03 06:59 pm (UTC)(I have dermagraphic skin and a latex/spandex allergy. I have only found one kind of bra that doesn't tear the skin under my boobs up and while it is really comfortable, it doesn't provide much support.)
Oh, are cholis complicated to sew?
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:52 pm (UTC)They give good support, not really bra-shaped but depending on the pattern it could be.
I have had the best luck lining them, which makes them a bit hot/bulky to go under a shirt-- since they fasten by ties they'd look odd under other clothing.
The choli was my first real looked-good-when-I-finished garment. They are not at all complicated, and since they are small, they are quick to sew. I used this pattern (http://www.blackswantribe.com.au/cholipattern2.html) for the one in the picture, which gives kind of a monoboob sports-bra-like effect, but could be made less cleavagey by a few adjustments. I had to alter the pattern slightly by shortening the shoulder and adding darts below the bust.
I have also used this pattern (http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/Patterns/choli203.gif) which gives more of a lift-and-separate kind of look.
I don't know if it could substitute for a bra, but if you made a few alterations to the pattern (like including an apron portion to cover the midriff, and extending it so it mostly closes in the back, and making it look more like the summery blouses you can buy in stores) then you could definitely make self-supportive shirts you could wear instead of a shirt and bra. They'd be empire-line, but you could play with that as you got better at the pattern and come up with different looks.
(edited to fix code)
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Date: 2009-04-03 09:25 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-04-04 02:24 am (UTC)Setting up the sewing machine seems like such a trivial thing but it is really complicated and space-consuming. It is a formidable obstacle! And it is very time-consuming to sew. But I find it so extremely satisfying that it's worth it to me. And it's so nice to have things that fit, and if they don't, I can fix them! That's really something I can't put a value on.
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Date: 2009-04-03 07:25 pm (UTC)I drives me batty that most people just believe that boobs only come as big as a DDD because most bras only go up to a DDD at most. This might be a good time for linkage to this (http://www.wapsisquare.com/d/20011112.html). Except yanno, add to that the actual rest of the alphabet too! ;)
all I can say is thank heavens for Panache/Fantasie, at least they believe we exist, sometimes. (even if I Fantasie bras do jack shit for me, at least I have my beloved Panache).
Also? One of my projects for this year is to learn to sew, and one of the things I really want to make are bust supportive clothing that is not a bra. You are an inspiration on this front. We'll see if it happens, but it would be lovely.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:57 pm (UTC)So I only have Fantasie and Freya. Fantasie is OK but tends to be a little wide-set into my armpits. Not really ideal shape. Freya is pretty, but many of them have uncomfortable detailing.
I am planning to learn to sew bras too, but I'm working up to it. It's really hard. And I only just got a machine with a zig-zag stitch.
But I like self-supportive clothing. The single best garment ever is the self-supportive 15th century kirtle (http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/FittingAndConstruction.htm). I am currently cutting out a version which I am going to make knee-length of blue silk for my sister's wedding reception. I wanted to try to adapt it to be a halter top but don't want to risk losing any support, so I'm leaving it as is and just doing it sleeveless.
What? Lacing up the front is SO fashion-forward this year!
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Date: 2009-04-03 09:14 pm (UTC)This (http://www.barenecessities.com/Panache-Tango-Two-Tone-Underwire-Bra_product_Panache5061_,search,.htm)is my favorite one, I think. Although I like this one (http://www.barenecessities.com/Panache-Scarlett-Underwire-Bra_product_Panache4501_,search,.htm) too, constructed very similarly. Of course that particular site is out of stock of a lot of sizes right now, but I link to them because they have very friendly customer service and non-stupid return policies, unlike new figleaves. (BN's search by size is f-ed though, no way to search for our end of the size range, so for the longest time I thought they didn't carry any, but they do, just their search is not set up to account for it, you have to look in individual bras). Hopefully Bare Necessities will get more stock in soon in those Panache ones. I'm happy to tell you more about the ones I've got if you're interested :)
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Date: 2009-04-03 07:26 pm (UTC)I have F-cups. Yeah, F, as in "F that noise." Being so racktastic has made my lingere-buying life hell. If they get any bigger, I think the solution may involve power tools, welding, and a suspension bridge architect.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:59 pm (UTC)The thing is, I think my boobs are really quite well-behaved for their size. They don't need architecture. They need decent construction, but so much lingerie is so poorly thought-out! I bought a book on bra construction and it was fascinating. There's a lot to it, but it's not advanced physics. Just basic physics.
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Date: 2009-04-03 09:18 pm (UTC)I'm short-waisted, so anything less than perky! makes my tits seem ultra-droopy, so I tend to go for scaffolding-type undergarments. I currently have 'em crammed into a DDD because I couldn't find it in a F and has the best lift of any bra I've tried in recent years. If I could find this in an F I'd buy a ton of 'em.
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Date: 2009-04-05 04:34 am (UTC)I am fat anyway so unless I dress up real nice, I just look fat, so I don't let it bother me what my boobs look like. Unless I'm dressed up real nice. Which is why as we speak I'm making a dress that has built-in support, since when I gained a couple pounds so I couldn't fit into either my halter-convertible OR my plunge-front bra (and haven't been able to find remotely suitable replacements) I also became unable to wear either of the remaining nice dresses I had.
So, basically, fuck lingerie. :) I'll make my own or be a shapeless lump-- those are my choices, since I refuse to either buy things that don't fit and reinforce lingerie companies' belief that there's no market for my size (42DDD sells so well! Because people have to chop ten inches out of the band! Yeah.), or pay $100/pop including shipping for something that may not actually fit either... Fuck that! It's not that hard to sew.
Pardon my militance, but I'm a bit tipsy and have been sewing all day so I'd have something that I could actually wear for my sister's wedding in two weeks. The last wedding I went to I wore a camisole under the plunge-front dress to cover the non-plunge bra, and i got straight-up stared at and it made me feel like shit. It must've looked weird? I don't know? Well screw it, I won't do it again.
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Date: 2009-04-05 05:56 am (UTC)I've been tempted by the Last Resort Bra, but their Wired And Ready For Action one is currently working for me -- the DDD is a little small, but in a sports bra, that just adds a little compression, so it works for me.
I sympathize with the militance. In addition to having larger-than-"standard" tits, I am tall and pudgy, a combination that apparently never happens ever. My own clothing-industry-militance is based more around "fuck trousers" than "fuck lingerie", but I get you.
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Date: 2009-04-03 08:48 pm (UTC)I also fall into the "fat with fairly small boobs" category, and have spent years trying to find bras that actually fit provide support and are (*gasp!*) reasonably attractive without cutting me in half. I found that having measurements done at a shop which specializes in bras helped. I generally order bras from Woman Within and other plus-size specialty stores. I rarely find bras that are comfortable, supportive, and attractive all at once, though - I generally make do by choosing any two of the three.
To answer
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Date: 2009-04-03 09:02 pm (UTC)Lane Bryant's Cacique seemed really exciting. But it's large-band, large-cup only. Which still doesn't serve my market segment (I am fat, but I wear a very small bra band because of my odd shape), and is even more of a slap in the face to yours.
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Date: 2009-04-04 09:30 am (UTC)Fortunately this has improved somewhat. But it was really awful-I mean what exactly is the point of designing things so ugly? Surely it wouldn't have hurt them to use attractive colors or fabrics? I remember when they all seemed to be beige, or white, and you were lucky to find black. Forget about lace or a nice texture. It's like they thought you WANTED to look ugly and asexual.
Like I said fortunately they seem to be making some nicer ones now. But on average plus sized bras are still less attractive, I think.
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Date: 2009-04-05 04:38 am (UTC)There's a bit more choice nowadays, but it mostly just pisses me off. The only US company that really caters to the D+ market is Goddess. Which... doesn't use underwires ever, as far as I can tell, and also seems to think that just making the same four-inch-wide-shoulder-straps Grandma-bra in delustered-satin-leopard-print is "sexy".
Um, no.
Panache. Freya. Fantasie. All British. Why do British chicks who are busty get big bras? Even Marks & Spencers, the discount department store, carries D+. Why?
Because there's so much less body shame there.
Ugh.
I'm tired of being ashamed of my fat titties already. If shame could make them smaller, it already would have.
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Date: 2009-04-03 10:20 pm (UTC)This isn't a problem I personally have, but a former girlfriend of mine really struggled with finding bras that would fit her due to breast asymmetry. Most women's breasts aren't perfectly symmetrical, and differences of 1/2 to a full cup size aren't all that uncommon.... but you'd never know that from the sizes offered either.
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Date: 2009-04-05 04:43 am (UTC)Mine are asymmetrical, but given their sheer size, I suppose they're not bad-- it's less than half a cup size difference, and really you can't tell unless you're trying to fit them into something. Sometimes I forget which is the larger one. I just always notice on one side first if I need to go up a cup size.
I'm just really tired of it being a big deal. But every day when I try to get dressed I get re-confronted with the fact that nothing fucking fits. And every time I complain about this, which I think is a reasonable complaint, I get at least one person who is incredulous that I haven't had a reduction yet. (Actually... come to think about it... this big comment thread gets a giant WIN because not one person, for the first time ever!!!!, has said anything of the kind!!!!!)
They don't hurt me!!! Even ill-fitting bras don't hurt that much!!! There's no pain! They're fine! They're healthy! Why would I get MAJOR SURGERY so that I could... buy clothes???? Why would I change my body to fit some company's idea of what's normal?
But that's what's expected. And these companies who offer such limited options simply refuse to acknowledge the power they have. How many women who would be my shape have undergone this dangerous, damaging, and really quite unnecessary surgery simply so they could fit this ideal?
Just a little food for thought, there.
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Date: 2009-04-04 04:02 am (UTC)Clearly we need to have a cleavage day at the antipodal day of the year for people who don't wear or want wonderbras.